How does a puck system fifth wheel hitch work?

The factory pucks are steel sockets tied straight into the truck frame. A puck-mount fifth wheel hitch has four legs that drop into the four corner pucks and lock with a quarter turn or a cam. The trailer's weight then travels from the hitch head down through the legs into the pucks and into the frame — no rails or drilling needed. To remove it, unlock the legs and lift the hitch out, and your bed is flat again.

My truck has the fifth wheel prep kit — how do I connect the fifth wheel hitch?

Pop the four corner puck caps, set the puck-mount hitch base into the holes with a helper, and lock each of the four legs. Then drop the head on, pin it, and grease it. To hitch the trailer, back under the kingpin with the jaw open until it latches, then insert the safety pin. The prep kit itself is just the mounting points — you still buy the hitch that drops into them, matched to your truck's year.

How long does it take to install a puck-mount fifth wheel hitch?

About 15 to 30 minutes the first time, and under 10 once you've done it. There's no drilling or bolting to the frame — the hard part is just lifting the base, which is heavy (roughly 50 to 90 lbs depending on the hitch), so have a second person help.

How does the gooseneck ball work on a puck system?

For gooseneck towing, the ball drops into the center puck and locks with a quarter turn (or a pull-pin, depending on the truck). The two safety-chain anchors go in the two rear pucks — the pair nearest the tailgate. Flip or lift the ball out to stow it and get a flat bed back. The four corner pucks are only used by a fifth wheel hitch, not the gooseneck ball.

Do I need to drill or bolt anything to install a puck-mount hitch?

No. That's the whole point of the factory puck system — the frame-mounted sockets are already there, so the hitch just drops in and locks. Rail-mount and under-bed gooseneck kits require drilling and bolting; a factory puck-mount hitch does not.

Why won't my fifth wheel hitch legs seat in the pucks?

Almost always it's the wrong year hitch. Puck spacing is brand- and year-specific — for example GM moved the pattern for the 2020 redesign, so 2016-2019 legs won't seat in a 2020+ truck. Double-check that the hitch is built for your exact make, model year, and generation. Also make sure the puck holes are clear of debris and the caps are fully removed.

How to Install a Puck-Mount Fifth Wheel Hitch

Written by a towing industry expert Updated July 2026

The short answer: No drilling, about 20 minutes: how to drop a fifth wheel hitch into your factory pucks, and how the whole system actually works.

The Short Version

Installing a puck-mount (OE) fifth wheel hitch is the easiest install there is: no drilling, no bolting to the frame. You pop the puck caps, drop the base in, lock the legs, and set the head on top. Start to finish it's about 15–30 minutes — the only hard part is that the base is heavy, so grab a helper.

How the Puck System Works

Why it holds without drilling

Your factory pucks aren't just holes in the sheet metal — they're steel sockets welded to a heavy bracket that ties straight into the truck frame. A puck-mount fifth wheel hitch has four legs that drop into the four corner pucks and lock with a quarter turn or a cam. Once loaded, the trailer's pin weight travels from the hitch head → down the legs → into the pucks → into the frame. That's why it can hold 20,000+ lbs with zero drilling.

The five-hole layout

Factory prep is five capped holes: four in a rectangle for a fifth wheel hitch, plus one in the center for a gooseneck ball. A 4-point fifth wheel hitch uses only the four corners — the center stays capped. Not sure you even have it? Check Does My Truck Have the Prep Package?

Before You Start

Three things to get right first

Confirm you have pucks

Five capped holes in the bed floor — not just molded dimples. Pull back any bed liner to check.

Match the hitch to your year

Puck spacing is year-specific. The wrong-year hitch simply won't seat. See Puck Dimensions & Fitment.

Line up a helper

The base or legs weigh roughly 50–90 lbs. Lifting it into the pucks solo is a good way to pinch a finger.

Step-by-Step: The 4-Point Fifth Wheel Hitch

Roughly 15–30 minutes

1. Pop the corner puck caps

Pry the four corner covers out with a flat screwdriver. Leave the center cap in — a fifth wheel hitch doesn't use it. Wipe out any dirt so the legs seat clean.

2. Set the base into the pucks

Most hitches split into a base and a head. With your helper, lower the base so all four legs drop fully into the corner pucks. They should sit flush — if a leg won't go, stop and re-check your fitment (wrong year is the usual culprit).

3. Lock all four legs

Engage the locking mechanism on each leg — a quarter-turn handle on a B&W Companion, cam locks or pins on others. Confirm every one of the four is locked. This is the step people skip in a hurry; don't.

4. Add the head and grease it

Drop the hitch head onto the base, install the pivot pins, and secure their clips. Grease the head plate and the jaw mechanism, then set the jaw to the open position, ready for the kingpin.

5. Verify before you tow

Tug each leg to confirm it's locked, check the head pins and clips, and do a slow first hookup. Back under the trailer until the jaw latches around the kingpin, insert the safety pin, and check your hitch height before you pull out.

Your specific hitch's instructions are the final word — locking mechanisms and pin details vary by brand. But the sequence above holds for every puck-mount fifth wheel hitch.

Using the Center Hole: Gooseneck Ball Setup

Same pucks, different tow

If you're towing a gooseneck trailer (or a fifth wheel off a gooseneck adapter), you use the center hole instead of the four corners:

• Drop the gooseneck ball into the center puck and lock it — a quarter turn on most trucks, a pull-pin on some. Flip or lift it out to stow the ball and get a flat bed.
• The two safety-chain anchors go in the two rear pucks — the pair nearest the tailgate. That's the only pair they're built to fit, and chains are legally required for gooseneck towing.
• Heads up: on many trucks the ball and anchors are a separate purchase from the prep package. Check the cab and glovebox — they're sometimes stored in a case.

Want the full breakdown of which holes do what? See the prep-package guide, or Gooseneck vs Fifth Wheel for the difference.

Not sure which one fits your truck?

Enter your year, make, model, and bed — we'll show only the hitches that actually bolt on.

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

The ones that bite people

Wrong-year hitch

The #1 problem. Legs won't seat because the puck spacing changed (e.g. GM's 2020 redesign). Match your exact year before buying.

A leg not fully locked

All four legs must lock. Do the tug test on each one before you put any weight on the hitch.

Skipping the grease

A dry head plate leads to chucking, groaning, and premature wear. Grease the plate and jaws on install and re-grease regularly.

Bed liner in the way

A drop-in liner can cover the pucks. You need the liner cut around the holes (or pulled) so the legs seat on the bed, not on plastic.

More on keeping it healthy: Hitch Maintenance and Troubleshooting.

Which Hitch Should You Get?

Buy the right one, install is easy

The install is only this easy if you buy the right hitch for your truck. Any 4-point puck-mount (OE) fifth wheel hitch drops in — B&W Companion OEM, CURT, Reese, PullRite — but each is built for a specific make, year range, and weight rating. See our shortlist in Best Puck-Mount Fifth Wheel Hitches, or let the finder match your exact truck.