How does a puck system fifth wheel hitch work?

The factory pucks are steel sockets tied straight into the truck frame. A puck-mount fifth wheel hitch has four legs that drop into the four corner pucks and lock with a quarter turn or a cam. The trailer's weight then travels from the hitch head down through the legs into the pucks and into the frame — no rails or drilling needed. To remove it, unlock the legs and lift the hitch out, and your bed is flat again.

My truck has the fifth wheel prep kit — how do I connect the fifth wheel hitch?

Pop the four corner puck caps, set the puck-mount hitch base into the holes with a helper, and lock each of the four legs. Then drop the head on, pin it, and grease it. To hitch the trailer, set the pin box slightly below the hitch plate, drop the tailgate, back under the kingpin with the jaw open until it latches, insert the safety pin, do a pull test, and close the tailgate before you drive. The prep kit itself is the mounting points plus an in-bed 7-way plug — you still buy the hitch that drops into them, matched to your truck's make and model year.

How long does it take to install a puck-mount fifth wheel hitch?

About 15 to 30 minutes once the hitch is assembled (first-time assembly with a torque wrench adds time), and under 10 once you've done it. There's no drilling or bolting to the frame — the hard part is the weight: a two-piece hitch like the B&W Companion OEM has a base of about 79 lbs, and one-piece hitches like CURT's go in as a single assembly of about 186 lbs, so have a second person help.

How does the gooseneck ball work on a puck system?

For gooseneck towing, the ball drops into the center puck and locks with the handle on top of the ball (a quarter turn on most kits; B&W's rotates down and latches). The two safety-chain anchors go in the two rear pucks — the pair nearest the tailgate. Lift the ball out and store it in its case to get a flat bed back. The two front pucks stay capped; only a fifth wheel hitch uses all four corners.

Do I need to drill or bolt anything to install a puck-mount hitch?

No drilling, and nothing bolts to the truck. That's the whole point of the factory puck system — the frame-mounted sockets are already there, so the hitch just drops in and locks. (The first time, you may bolt the hitch itself together — B&W and CURT call for a torque wrench.) Rail-mount and under-bed gooseneck kits require drilling and bolting; a factory puck-mount hitch does not.

Why won't my fifth wheel hitch legs seat in the pucks?

Usually it's a hitch built for a different truck or model year. Puck spacing is brand- and year-specific — for example GM moved the pattern for the 2020 redesign, so 2016-2019 legs won't seat in a 2020+ truck. Double-check that the hitch is built for your exact make, model year, and generation. Also make sure the puck holes are clear of debris and the caps are fully removed; B&W notes you may also need to pull the plastic grommets around the holes for the base to sit flat.

How to Install a Puck-Mount Fifth Wheel Hitch

Written by a towing industry expert Updated July 2026

The short answer: No drilling, about 20 minutes: how to drop a fifth wheel hitch into your factory pucks, and how the whole system actually works.

The Short Version

Installing a puck-mount (OE) fifth wheel hitch is the easiest install there is: no drilling, no bolting to the frame. You pop the puck caps, drop the base in, lock the legs, and set the head on top. Start to finish it's about 15–30 minutes — the only hard part is that the base is heavy, so grab a helper.

How the Puck System Works

Why it holds without drilling

Your factory pucks aren't just holes in the sheet metal — they're steel sockets welded to a heavy bracket that ties straight into the truck frame. A puck-mount fifth wheel hitch has four legs that drop into the four corner pucks and lock with a quarter turn or a cam. Once loaded, the trailer's pin weight travels from the hitch head → down the legs → into the pucks → into the frame. That's why puck-mount hitches can be rated for 20,000+ lb trailers with zero drilling.

The five-hole layout

Factory prep is five capped holes: four in a rectangle for a fifth wheel hitch, plus one in the center for a gooseneck ball. A 4-point fifth wheel hitch uses only the four corners — the center stays capped. Not sure you even have it? Check Does My Truck Have the Prep Package?

Before You Start

Three things to get right first

Confirm you have pucks

Five capped holes in the bed floor — not just molded dimples. Lift out a drop-in liner or bed mat to check — a properly done spray-in liner leaves the caps visible.

Match the hitch to your year

Puck spacing is different on every brand, and GM changed its pattern for 2020. A hitch built for the wrong truck or year simply won't seat. See Puck Dimensions & Fitment.

Line up a helper

Even on a two-piece hitch the base is close to 80 lbs (a B&W Companion OEM base is about 79), and one-piece hitches like CURT's go in as a single ~186-lb assembly. Lifting it into the pucks solo is a good way to pinch a finger.

Step-by-Step: The 4-Point Fifth Wheel Hitch

Roughly 15–30 minutes

1. Pop the corner puck caps

Pry the four corner covers out with a flat screwdriver. Leave the center cap in — a fifth wheel hitch doesn't use it. Wipe out any dirt so the legs seat clean.

2. Set the base into the pucks

Most hitches split into a base and a head. With your helper, lower the base so all four legs drop fully into the corner pucks. They should sit flush — if a leg won't go, stop and re-check your fitment (wrong year is the usual culprit).

3. Lock all four legs

Engage the locking mechanism on each leg — on a B&W Companion or CURT you turn the latch handle, then pin it closed; other brands use cams or pins. Confirm every one of the four is locked. This is the step people skip in a hurry; don't.

4. Add the head and grease it

Drop the hitch head onto the base, install the pivot pins, and secure their clips. Grease the head plate and the jaw mechanism, then set the jaw to the open position, ready for the kingpin.

5. Verify before you tow

Tug each leg to confirm it's locked, check the head pins and clips, and do a slow first hookup. Set the trailer so the pin box sits slightly below the hitch plate, drop the tailgate, back under until the jaw latches around the kingpin, insert the safety pin, do a pull test against the trailer brakes, and close the tailgate before you pull out.

Your specific hitch's instructions are the final word — locking mechanisms and pin details vary by brand. But the sequence above holds for most puck-mount hitches that split into a base and head; one-piece hitches like CURT's go in as a single assembly with the legs already bolted to the head.

Using the Center Hole: Gooseneck Ball Setup

Same pucks, different tow

If you're towing a gooseneck trailer (or a fifth wheel off a gooseneck adapter), you use the center hole (plus the two rear pucks for the chain anchors) instead of all four corners:

• Drop the gooseneck ball into the center puck and lock it with the handle on top of the ball — a quarter turn on most kits (B&W's rotates down and latches). Lift it out and store it in its case to get a flat bed.
• The two safety-chain anchors go in the two rear pucks — the pair nearest the tailgate. That's where they're designed to go, and you need safety chains for gooseneck towing (most states require them by law).
• Heads up: on many trucks the ball and anchors are a separate purchase from the prep package. If the truck came with them, look for a storage case or bag in the cab, or ask the seller.

Want the full breakdown of which holes do what? See the prep-package guide, or Gooseneck vs Fifth Wheel for the difference.

Which hitch fits your truck?

Pick your truck and we'll show only the hitches that actually bolt on — with prices.

What year is your truck?

Older model? Select year (1994–2020)

What's the make?

Which model?

What's in your bed?

What's your bed length?

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The ones that bite people

Wrong-year hitch

The #1 problem. Legs won't seat because the puck spacing changed (e.g. GM's 2020 redesign). Match your exact year before buying.

A leg not fully locked

All four legs must lock. Do the tug test on each one before you put any weight on the hitch.

Skipping the grease

A dry head plate leads to binding, groaning, and premature wear. Grease the plate and jaws on install and re-grease regularly.

Bed liner in the way

A drop-in liner or bed mat covers the pucks, and Ford says its puck hitches can't be used with one at all. Pull it so the base seats on the bed, not on plastic.

More on keeping it healthy: Hitch Maintenance and Troubleshooting.

Which Hitch Should You Get?

Buy the right one, install is easy

The install is only this easy if you buy the right hitch for your truck. Any 4-point puck-mount (OE) fifth wheel hitch drops in — B&W Companion OEM, CURT, Reese, PullRite — but each is built for a specific make, year range, and weight rating. See our shortlist in Best Puck-Mount Fifth Wheel Hitches, or let the finder match your exact truck.