Troubleshooting Common Problems
The short answer: Clunking, binding, or won't latch? Work through the most common fifth wheel hitch problems.
In This Guide
Why Is My Fifth Wheel Hitch Making Noise?
Clunking, squeaking, popping
Clunking When Starting/Stopping
Cause: Slack between kingpin and jaws. Normal with some hitches, but excessive play means wear.
Fix: Check jaw adjustment if your hitch has it, though most current RV hitches don't (older Demco Hijackers did). If the jaws are worn, a replacement jaw kit usually tightens things back up.
Squeaking When Turning
Cause: Dry skid plate. Metal-on-metal contact.
Fix: More grease on the hitch plate. Apply liberally and re-check after a trip. (Running a lube plate instead of grease? Check the plate for wear rather than greasing over it.)
Popping/Snapping Sound
Cause: Often the pin box pivoting on a dry hitch plate, or something flexing in the trailer itself.
Fix: Grease the skid plate. If it persists, the sound may be from the trailer, not the hitch.
What Causes Chucking or Bucking with a Fifth Wheel?
Jerky ride, especially on rough roads
Chucking is that jarring back-and-forth motion you feel when the trailer and truck aren't moving together smoothly. It's uncomfortable and hard on your truck.
Cause 1: Kingpin Play
Fix: Tighten jaw adjustment if available. Some play is normal, but excessive play causes chucking.
Cause 2: Standard Pin Box
Fix: Upgrade to a cushioned or air-ride pin box. These absorb the motion before it reaches your truck. Popular solution for chucking.
Cause 3: Trailer Suspension
Fix: Sometimes it's the trailer, not the hitch. Have the trailer suspension checked.
Pro Tip
Air-ride pin boxes (like Reese's 5th Airborne or Lippert/CURT's Air Ride and Flex Air) are the most effective solution for chucking. They're not cheap (roughly $1,300-2,100) but they transform the ride. MORryde's pin box uses a rubber spring instead of air and costs less.
What Do I Do If My Fifth Wheel Hitch Won't Release?
Kingpin stuck in jaws
Don't Panic
This is almost always fixable at the campsite. Don't try to drive or drag the trailer — you'll damage something.
Step 1: Check the Obvious
- • Is the safety pin/clip removed?
- • Is the handle fully in the release position?
- • Is there weight on the hitch? (jacks not supporting trailer)
Step 2: Remove Weight from Kingpin
Extend the front jacks until they take the trailer's weight off the hitch plate, then stop. Don't lift the pin box clear of the plate: CURT says any gap should be 1/16" or less, and jacking too high puts upward pressure on the jaws and binds them.
Step 3: Back Up Slightly
With the wheels chocked and the jacks down, back the truck up slightly against the kingpin to take the load off the jaws, set the parking brake, then pull the handle. That's the fix Reese, CURT and PullRite all give. Still tight? Raise or lower the jacks a little and try again.
Step 4: Drive Forward Slightly
With the jacks down, the tailgate down and the handle fully in the release position, pull forward slowly; the jaws open as the kingpin leaves. If you feel resistance, stop and go back a step. Don't drag the trailer on its jacks.
Step 5: Lubricate
Spray lubricant on the jaw mechanism. Work the handle back and forth.
Still stuck? Call a mobile RV tech. Don't force it and break something.
Why Won't My Fifth Wheel Hitch Lock?
Indicator doesn't show locked
Kingpin Not Fully Seated
Fix: With the landing gear still down, pull forward and start over. Set the trailer so the pin box plate sits about 1/2" to 1" below the top of the hitch plate, then back straight in so the kingpin slides into the jaws. On a standard jaw-type hitch, never lower the trailer onto the hitch with the jacks: the kingpin can end up sitting on top of the jaws (a high hitch) and the trailer can come off.
Debris in Jaws
Fix: Check for rocks, sticks, or ice in the jaw area. Clean it out.
Mechanism Stuck
Fix: Work the handle several times. Apply lubricant. Check for rust or binding.
Worn Components
Fix: If nothing else works, the locking mechanism may be worn. Time for service or replacement.
Never Tow Without Verified Lock
Verified means all three: no gap between the pin box plate and the hitch plate, the jaws visibly closed around the kingpin (use a flashlight; don't crawl under the trailer), and a pull test against the trailer brakes with the landing gear still down or just off the ground. An indicator alone isn't enough. If any check fails, don't tow. Period. Fix it first.
What If My Sliding Hitch Won't Slide?
Stuck forward or back
Pin Not Released
Make sure you've fully released the locking pin. Some have two — check both.
Truck and Trailer Not Lined Up
Sliders bind when the truck and trailer sit at an angle or on uneven ground. Straighten out on level ground, and if the handle is wedged in its latch hole, ease the truck slightly forward or back to free it. Then set the trailer brakes and move the truck slowly.
Dry Rails
Lube the slide only the way your manual says, because brands disagree: B&W says its Companion Slider needs no lube at all, Reese calls for grease or Teflon lube on its slide tubes, and a current PullRite SuperGlide takes light oil only, never grease.
Rust/Corrosion
If stored outside without cover, rails can rust and bind. Clean with wire brush, apply rust inhibitor, then lubricate the way your manual specifies.
Related Guides
What you actually get when you spend more — and where the cheap options cut corners.
Read guide →Aftermarket pin boxes — what they do, when you need one, and which ones are worth it.
Read guide →Factory OEM puck mounts explained — Ford, GM, and Ram systems compared.
Read guide →